Two of Liverpool's most notable chefs believe the city is getting closer to a Michelin star with "the food scene the strongest it's ever been".
Paul Askew, chef patron at the Art School, and Manifest's Paul Durand told the ECHO there is lots to be positive about in Liverpool's food scene despite the city missing out on a Michelin star. Michelin recently released its list of restaurants awarded the prestigious star in its annual guide based on food, quality, cooking techniques, value and consistency.
While West Lancashire was a big winner in the 2023 edition, with three restaurants in Aughton sharing four stars between them, Liverpool's wait for the top accolade remains elusive. Several Liverpool restaurants were recently named in the guide, including Mr Askew's Art School and Barnacle, Mr Durand's Manifest, the city centre Roski, and Belzan on Smithdown Road. Fraiche in Birkenhead has held a star for a number of years.
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Mr Durand, whose restaurant Manifest has been open in the Baltic Triangle since last March serving seasonal produce, told the ECHO: "I don't think I'd call the lack of star a snub. We're seeing Liverpool restaurants added to the Michelin guide so it's clear they are coming to the city.
"I think a Michelin star will come to the city soon – the inspectors are after consistency so I think we need to carry on what we're doing and hopefully that will be recognised. I've been in hospitality for 20 years and cooking for 15.
"The food scene in Liverpool is the strongest I've seen it. About eight years ago I thought you had to move away to be able to cook at that next level. Now any ambitious chef in Liverpool will find their ambition matched by the food scene. We just need to concentrate on making people happy and anything other than that is a bonus."
Mr Askew has been at the forefront of the gastronomic scene in Liverpool for decades, most recently as chef patron of Art School in the Georgian Quarter. Before that he headed up operations at The London Carriage Works after starting a career in Wirral and New York.
The Art School, which serves innovative dishes showcasing the best local produce, has been widely tipped as the restaurant most likely to bring a star to the city. Mr Askew pointed to a number of challenges city centre restaurants face compared to their counterparts who operate country houses.
Michelin celebrates restaurants with a farm to table ethos often grow their own produce which is much easier in rural spots. Mr Askew added Michelin strives for consistency – and wants restaurants to have their own ethos instead of catering to what they think Michelin want.
Like Mr Durand, the chef patron also believes the Liverpool food scene is the healthiest it has been since he's been involved in it. But he added it is a challenging environment for independents to be working in, due to the after effects of the pandemic and the devastation Brexit has caused on retaining hospitality staff, particularly in the north. He pointed to Lerpwl, on the Albert Dock, who was in the Michelin guide but was forced to close due to the financial struggles.
But he also believes a Michelin star for the city is not too far around the corner. He told the ECHO: "I've long wanted to see a star for Liverpool and I think we're getting closer and closer. The food scene at the moment is really vibrant.
"It took Manchester 40 years to get a star, Birmingham now has around six. The regeneration of Liverpool compared to those two cities has perhaps been slower. Liverpool is on the right path.
"The Michelin guide is obviously visiting the city which is a good sign. I still believe the star guide is relevant – it shows a restaurant's standards are the highest and it's something we should all be striving for. It would be important for the city."
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